Rhone, Champagne & Burgundy – Day 6

Reims

I have been visiting Reims since 1975 and never seem to get tired of this wonderful city. It is Master of Wine Maggie McNie who introduced me, many years ago, to Hotel de la Paix and I have stayed there during all my visits to Reims.

Hotel de la Paix

Champagne Pol Roger

“My tastes are simple, I am easily satisfied with the best” – Sir Winston Churchill

The morning tasting was at Pol Roger in Epernay. Work on setting up this event started in November 2016 after a Pol Roger tasting at Hotel du Vin in Harrogate with Jonathan Smailes, Uk Director of Sales for Champagne Pol Roger.

Douglas McFarlane reported: “Have just left Pol Roger after a 3 & half hour adventure above & below ground. Our guide Sylviane Lemaire did a superb job ending with a tasting of 3 vintage Champagnes – 2009 Blanc de Blancs, 2008 Rose & 2006 Sir Winston Churchill. Oh la la!!”

1. Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2009 – Chardonnays selected from the Grands Crus of the Côte des Blancs : Oiry, Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Oger. The must undergoes two débourbages (settlings), one at the press house immediatly after pressing and the second, a débourbage à froid, in stainless steel tanks at 6°C over a 24 hour period. A slow cool fermentation with the temperature kept under 18°C takes place in stainless steel with each variety and each village kept seperate. The wine undergoes a full malolactic-fermentation prior to final blending. The second fermentation takes place at 9°C in the deepest Pol Roger cellars (33 metres below street level) where the wine is kept until it undergoes remuage by hand,The Cuvée has been aged for 7 years before release
2. Pol Roger Rosé 2008 – is based on the Brut Vintage (60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay) to which approximately 15% of Pinot Noir from the best crus of the Montagne de Reims is added before the second fermentation. Produced only in limited quantities, the Brut Rosé Vintage is aged 7 years before release. (Vinification is similar to that of the Blanc de Blancs)
3. Poll Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2006 – Champagne Pol Roger created the Prestige Cuvée in homage to Sir Winston Churchill. The exact blend is a closely guarded secret. Pinot Noir predominates. It is composed exclusively of grapes sourced from Grands Crus Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards which were already under vine during Churchill’s lifetime. The Cuvée is made only in the very best vintages and is always released later than the other vintage dated Champagnes from Pol Roger

“What a privilege to have been allowed access to the House of Pol-Roger. A comprehensive 3 hour tour of this distinguished House with Slyviane. An exceptionally knowledgeable and gracious guide with 30 years of experience working for the House. She herself is the daughter of a grower of pinot meunier and owns a contracted out pinot meunier vineyard, most of whose produce goes towards the Pol-Roger NV.

The walk in parts of the 7 km cellars, challenging for some, was also fascinating. We got to watch expert remuers at their skilled work from very close range. For many of us the hypnotic robotics of the labelling, capsule fitting and boxing plant was most engaging.

Obviously the highlight was the tasting at the end.

Blanc De Blancs 2009; only recently bottled and blessed with a beautifully fresh bouquet. Some biscuity quality on the nose. Lovely full mouth feel finishing with long lemony aftertaste. Fine, delicate mousse. Lovely as aperitif or with fish and with clear potential to develop more complexity.

Rose 2008: Deep pink colour and fine mousse. Lightl florality combined with red fruit, especially redcurrant, on nose. The red fruit also on the palate with a subtle creamy/ caramel aftertaste. Lots of acidity to give length to the wine, although for me went slightly tinny and dull after a while. I must confess though to not being a lover of rose wines.

Cuvée Winston Churchill 2006: fabulously complex and intense nose – biscuity and hints of Brazil nuts. The palate is correspondingly deep, complex, full bodied with great length and balance. A truly great champagne, sadly with a price tag to match.” – Robert Buckley

After a rustic lunch in Epernay, the group headed to Le Mesnil-sur-Oger to taste at Champagne Vergnon.

Champagne Vergnon

The afternoon tasting was at Champagne Vergonon in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Mesnil is a charming Grand Cru wine village. I visited it years ago to taste at Salon but have never tasted the wines of Christophe Constant. Many critics including Michael Edwards rate his wines highly. After reading an article on Champagne Vergnon by Jamie Goode (see link below), I decided to arrange a visit and tasting.

“A gifted and well-known oenologue, Christophe has excellent raw materials to work with, and is helped by the situation of his vines, most of which are located in Avize, Oger and, of course, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. His philosophy is to nurture ripe and mature Chardonnay, usually from old vines, to eschew malolactic fermentation, and to allow the wines a lengthy maturation pre (and post) disgorgement, to facilitate integration and presage a potential for lengthy ageing.” – Berry Bros. & Rudd

Of the six cuvées of Vergnon, the group tasted four.

1. Brut Conversation: 2006 Chardonnay from Mesnil/Oger and Avize with 25% reserve wine. Over 3 years in cellars before release
2. Extra-Brut Eloquence: 2006 Chardonnay from Mesnil/Oger, Oger and Avize with 25% reserve wine. Over 3 years in cellars before release
3. Extra-Brut Rosé Rosémotion: 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir
4. Brut Nature Confidence 2010: 50% barrel fermented

“The visit to Champagne Vergnon was very fascinating. We were introduced to the wines by the son of the owner and the new winemaker whose combined experience of working at the House was 6 months. This in no way detracted from what I found a most instructive tasting – even if the wines weren’t to everyone’s taste.

Conversation Brut: very delicate/ fresh nose with hints of dry fruit. A minerally palate which has very refreshing acidity and subtle oak flavours leading to a long finish. We were informed that the wine would age well for 15-20 years.

Eloquence Extra Brut: this wine caused much surprise as in spite of two grams less sugar most people perceived it as sweeter. Certainly on the nose the apple fruit was more pronounced – more Cox than Granny Smith, with a hint of honey and dried fruits. The appley fruit is also more pronounced on the palate – but so too was the long acidic aftertaste. A really interesting wine.

Rosemotion, Rose Extra-Brut: Gentle fresh red fruit nose. Clear clean fruity palate with a long clean finish. I preferred it to the Pol-Roger – but it’s still a rose!

Confidence, Brut Nature: very evident oak presence on both palate and nose. A very pronounced bouquet and full, satisfying mouthful. The lack of dosage certainly does not detract from the enjoyment of this rich food wine.” – Robert Buckley

(The visit to Champagne Pol Roger in Epernay was arranged with the assistance of Jonathan Smailes and Harriet Burnett of Pol Roger UK)

See also:

1. Champagne JL Vergnon – by Jamie Goode
2. In Reims, Buying Champagne 

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• Champagne VERGNON, 1 Grande Rue, 51 190 Le mesnil sur Oger, Tél : +33 (0)5 26 57 53 86 – Mob. +33 (0)6 77 70 28 63. Mail : contact@champagne-jl-vergnon.com   www.champagne-jl-vergnon.com
• Best Western Premier Hôtel de la Paix, 9 Rue Buirette, Centre-ville de Reims, Reims,