A wine culture existed in today’s Ukraine already in the 4th century BC at the south coast of the Crimea. Presses and amphoras were found from this period. Wine cultivation in the northern part of the country (around Kyiv and Chernihiv) however only started in the 11th century by monks. Today, vineyards can be found not only in the southern regions of the country — Odesa, Crimea, Mykolayiv or Kherson — but a number of experimental plantations successfully exist in the northern regions — in Chernihiv, Lviv, Kyiv and Ternopil.
Under Empress Catherine the Great (1729–1796) in 1783 the Crimea became a part of the Russian Empire. Count Mikhail Vorontsov planted the first wine gardens in 1820 and established a large winery near Yalta. The viticulture research institute Magarach was founded then in 1828. In 1822, with the approval of Tsar Alexander I, Swiss winegrowers from the canton Vaud established a colony at Shabo (French: Chabag). They later founded daughter colonies on the Dnieper and in Crimea. Wine from Chabag was displayed at the 1893 World’s Columbian Expositionin Chicago and received a medal of recognition.
The founder of the famous sparkling wines is prince Lev Golitsyn, who for the first time manufactured Russian “Champagner” after the Crimean War (1854 to 1856) on his property Novyi Svet near Yalta. Later, under the last Tsar Nicholas II (1868–1918) the predecessor of Massandra, today’s state winery, was founded. During Soviet times Ukraine with 2,500 km2 (965 sq mi) was the largest supplier of the wines in the USSR. It came to a disaster in 1986: about 800 km2 (309 sq mi) of the vineyards were destroyed, when Soviet General Secretary Mikhail Gorbachev started a campaign against the over-consumption of alcohol in USSR. Since 2000 the production as well as the export of the wines has increased rapidly.
After the annexation of Crimea, Ukraine lost not only 17 thousand hectares of vineyards, but also wineries that provided 60% of wines.
Many international grape varieties are grown in Ukraine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Riesling. However, some decent local varieties are winners not just in their local markets, but also with international connoisseurs.
Telti Kuruk is a white grape variety that results in extremely potent wines with the aroma of white flowers and refreshing acidity. Sukholimansky is a white grape variety that results in refined aromatic wines, perfect for everyday drinking.
Odesa Black (a.k.a. Aliberne) is also called ‘mustang’ among red varieties. Owing to its rich colour and riot of spices, wines from this variety have been repeatedly named ‘the future identity of Ukraine”.
Harrogate Medical Society held a tasting of Ukrainian wine at the Masonic Hall in Harrogate in association with Wines of Ukraine UK on 18 April 2024. The wines were presented by Tania Olevska of Ukrainian Wine Company UK.
Bisser Sparkling Brut, Kolonist Wine, Odesa region, Bessarabia. (£30) was served on arrival. It is 100% Chardonnay aged on lees for 18/12. ABV 11.5%. Crisp, balanced and excellent. (17)
The following wines were tasted:
1. Sukholymanske Unfiltered White, Frumushika-Nova. Odesa region, Bessarabia. (indigenous Ukrainian grape) (£18.50)
This white grape variety created in the second half of the 20th century by the Odessa Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking (named after Tairov). Wines from this variety have a light golden color, rich fruity aroma with tones of pear and white flowers, light notes of nutmeg. It has a harmonious taste with notes of melon, white plum and pleasant sourness in the aftertaste. – (16.5)
2. Telti-Kuruk White, Beykush Winery. Mykolaiv region. (£27.00) – Telti-Kuruk is a white indigenous grape classified as Vitis vinifera, and belongs to a group of varieties of the Black Sea basin. It’s indigenous to Ukraine and can only be found here. It has survived the phylloxera epidemic. Telti-Kuruk also known as “fox tail”. This variety was named so due to the unusual shape of the bunch, which really resembles the tip of a fox’s tail. Telti-Kuruk produces wines of a fresh and distinctly mineral character. On the nose, floral and fruity notes are clearly audible, mostly white acacia and ripe quince. On the palate this wine is round, full-bodied, with minerality notes characteristic of the terroir, and a fresh, slightly bitter finish. (16)
3. Arbina Orange, Beykush Winery. Mykolaiv region. Full-bodied orange from Rkatsyteli grape. Aged in amphoras and oak. (£43.00) – (15.5)
4. Saperavi ACE, Stakhovsky Wines. Zakarpattia region. (£25.00) – (16.5)
5. Odesa Black, Villa Tinta. Odesa region, Bessarabia. (indigenous Ukrainian grape) (£14.60)
This red grape called Odesa Black, or Alibernet, originates from the crossing of Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon. This variety was created in 1948 by Tairov Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking in Odesa. Odesa Black is grown in Ukraine as well in Slovakia, Czech Republic and Hungary. Most winemakers claim that this variety is not easy to work with, yet when tamed it produces dark, intense and fruity red wines with distinct mint and black berry aromas and velvety jam notes. – (16)
6. Kara-Kermen, Beykush Winery. Mykolaiv region. Blend of Saperavi and Tempranillo, 50/50. Each variety was fermented and aged in oak separately for 36 months. (£60) – (17)
The tasting was followed by a two-course dinner. Haut de Gamme by Kolonist Wine – a Cabernet-Merlot blend aged for 9 months in French barrels. (£29 per bottle.) was poured with the 18 hours roasted topside of Beef served pink, with Yorkshire Pudding and potatoes. Creme Brulee and coffee followed. (16)
Comments
Many thanks for organising another excellent and informative tasting. Tania was charming and bursting with information to impart. This was a real treat, as prior to your organisation of this tasting, I had never even heard of Ukrainian wine.
In view of my prior ignorance, I approached this tasting hoping to learn, but with no great expectation in terms of quality. I was therefore very pleasantly surprised by the quality of all of the wines presented.
As with the majority of participants, I was most impressed by the sparkling wine and the Kara-Kerman wine. I found the Blisser to be a very well balanced, light wine with some complexity and good fruit and acidity.
The Kara-Kerman, by contrast was a very full and powerful wine. Dusty vegetal notes combined with dark fruits on the nose. The palate combined dark fruits, particularly cherries, with beeswax oaky notes and some residual sugar to form a complex effect. Would benefit from more time in bottle to tame the tannins on the finish.
The Arbina Orange wine was also a revelation. To date I have not been a fan of orange wines. This wine is clearly the product of very different winemaking methods, spending just a month in amphora and having significant exposure to wood. The nose initially presented with acetone notes, which happily gave way quickly to a combination of oaky vanilla and dried fruits. The complex nose was constantly evolving in the glass. The palate combined beeswax, dried fruits and a touch of spice.
The other wines were all interesting and well made. I had a preference for the reds, though see the Seperavi and the Odesa Black as being very much food wines and both needing several years to soften the strong tannins. In terms of value for money the Odesa Black clearly stood out. A complex nose with tarmac, floral, black olive, herbal and dark fruit elements. The palate is less complex at the moment, being very much about dark fruits and tannins. Might repay several more years in bottle. The Seperavi is a rather better balanced and more elegant wine – but again needs time. – Rob Buckley, Leeds
I would like to echo the comments of other members and thank you and Tania for a really enjoyable tasting of Ukrainian wines. Tania was both knowledgeable and very engaging.
In general they exceeded my expectations and the standouts for me were the Bisser, Telti-Kuruk, Odesa Black and Kara-Kermen.
Aside from the Odesa Black, which I think has some aging potential and is very good value for money, and the Bisser which I thought stood up well to many English sparkling wine at similar price points, some wines were certainly on the expensive side, even with the generous discounts.
Thanks again to you and Tania.
Lastly the beef-really excellent, and went very well with the Haut the Gamme!! – Dr. David Scullion, Harrogate
What a treat to experience wines from Ukraine.
It is quite a few years since we were there and the country as we knew it will sadly be quite different now.
The wines were excellent with our favourites on the night being the Sukholymans ke white. We also enjoyed the Odesa Black ,the Kara Kermen and the Haut de Gamme was a perfect accompaniment to the delicious beef.
However John felt the Kara has hints of “nail varnish”.
Thank you Bernard for all you do in giving us these very different tastings.
Thank also to Tania for her excellent presentation and thank you Chris for a delicious meal. – Pat & John Shore, Harrogate
Congratulations on a truly outstanding wine tasting and dinner last night. This was indeed a unique and memorable event, greatly enhanced by Tania with her remarkable enthusiasm and knowledge, and we owe you both a great debt of gratitude. – Malcolm Beer, Harrogate
HMWS Blog 