Harrogate Medical Winer Society’s 2024 Spring Lunch was held at the Masonic Hall in Harrogate on Sunday 19 May. It highlighted the elegant Chardonnay wines of the Stellenbosch estate – Capensis which the Society visited in October 2023.
Capensis means “from the Cape.” Established in 2013, it produces quality Chardonnays from its 8 ha vineyards in Stellenbosch.
Capensis winemaker Graham Weerts is a Cape Town native who graduated in 1996 from Elsenburg Agricultural College in Stellenbosch and worked as assistant winemaker at Mulderbosch Vineyards and later in Bordeaux and California.
Arrival at the Masonic Hall in Harrogate
Graham Beck Brut NV – dubbed the “President’s Choice” as it was served at both Nelson Mandela’s inauguration and to celebrate Barack Obama’s presidential nomination, was poured before the tasting proper. It was selected for this event because of Graham Beck’s association in the launch of Capensis winery. The Méthode Cap Classique is a blend of 51% Chardonnay and 49% Pinot Noir from parcels across the Western Cape. Grapes were whole bunch pressed, the two varietals fermented separately, cross blended along with reserve wine, bottled and left for 15 months with yeast contact before disgorgement. It has 9.2 g/l of residual sugar, a pH of 3.19 and 12% alcohol. It is a well balanced wine with good fruit and acidity. (16.5/20).
Lunch with Capensis wines was served in the main hall.
Dalkeith Koplandsteen Chennin Blanc 2021 was tasted first. It is 100% Chenin Blanc made by Capensis winemaker Graham Weerts. The fruit is from old vines of the Kalmoesfontein farm in Swartland. These dryland bush vines were planted on decomposed granite more than 50 years ago, and today, they produce some of the purest and most remarkable fruit of the region. this excellent Dalkeith’s flagship wine has good fruit and structure and will improve with more time in the bottle. It has 13% alcohol and a pH of 3.34. (17/20).
Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2019 was served with Sautéed Queen Scallops with Pea Purée.
The intent of Capensis Silene Chardonnay is to highlight the nuances and profound flavor profile that can be found in the Stellenbosch winegrowing region. Grapes for the 2019 are from the following vineyards: 39% Nooitgedacht Vineyard, 17% Fijnbosch Estate Vineyard, 17% Navarre Vineyard, 12% Sonop Vineyard and 15% Zeter Vineyard. The wine is matured for 10 months in French oak 30% new. It is a pleasing and approachable wine a fine balance. (17.5/20).
Capensis Chardonnay 2017 was tasted next. Winemaker Graham Weerts has selected the finest Chardonnay vineyards within the Western Cape to create this expressive wine. The ancient soils, dramatic landscapes and historic vineyards of Stellenbosch, Overberg and Robertson are the foundation for Capensis. Aged 10 months in French oak, 40% new. (16.5/20)
Capensis Fijnbosch Chardonnay 2019 seeks to showcase the pinnacle of purity from a singular site within the Stellenbosch District, and is only produced during exceptional vintages. For this flagship wine, fruit is sourced exclusively from the “Flowers” block on the estate Fijnbosch vineyard. Planted at 1,968 feet, this block is home to the highest planted vines in the Stellenbosch District. Only 100 cases are produced in any given vintage. It delightful and was the outstanding wine of the tasting. (18/20).
Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2020 was served with Seabass Fillet with crushed New Potatoes, Spring Greens and a Lemon & Dill sauce.
The wine is a blend of fruit from two mountain vineyards – Fijnbosch estate vineyard and the neighbouring Nooitgedacht vineyard. Silene provides an aromatic explosion of lime, lemon, orange blossom, jasmine, and spices. A tight palate of citrus and rich minerals end in a saline finish. It is light but long. (16.5/20).
Zesty Lemon Tart with Raspberry Sorbet followed. Graham’s 20 YO Tawny Port was served with Yorkshire Blue cheese, biscuits, celery and grapes.
Tea/Coffee and mints followed
The event was generously supported by Jo Moody of the Capensis UK Agent John Fells & Sons.
31 members of the Harrogate medical Wine Society and two guests attended the tasting lunch.
COMMENTS
Thanks again Bernard for organising another excellent event. The food at the hall just keeps getting better and I felt that yesterday they excelled themselves.
On looking at the wine list, predominantly chardonnay, from the same producer, one might of thought this was going to be a rather homogeneous tasting. This was far from being the case!
The Beck Brut was a classic champagne style bubbly with excellent fruit and beautifully balanced biscuity notes. For me this was the best value wine on display.
The Dalkeith Chenin Blanc had a tight lime zest and iodine nose which at the moment is rather austere. The palate also started saline and minerally before opening out into a surprisingly creamy and richly fruity palate. Good acid length, but I think that this wine still needs a lot of time to integrate and to develop.
The Capensis Silene 2019 was immediately appealing with its rich colour, lovely lemon and minerally bouquet. The palate was rich melange of white fruits balanced by good lemon acidity and a butteriness from well judged use of oak. For me the best value still white.
By contrast, I found the overly toasted oak flavours in the Capensis Chardonnay 2017 dominated the wine, swamping the fruit.
The Fijnbosch was, I think, by universal consent, the outstanding wine of the tasting. Everything is in perfect harmony – although maybe the price jangles somewhat.
The Capensis Silene 2020 was a very enjoyable wine with a nose of nectarine and a touch of minerality. On the palate it was very full of white fruits with reasonable acidity. Seemed pretty simple and straightforward – but that was surely accentuated by following the Fijnbosch.
Graham‘s 20 year old tawny is always enjoyable and needs no further comment.
Best regards,
– Rob Buckley, Leeds, 20/5/24
Dear Bernard,
With our attendance this HMWS year , curtailed by health issues, it was so satisfying to be able to be present today with such wonderful company. Your continuing efforts to produce the most interesting and stimulating tastings, were exemplified this lunchtime with an excursion into a particular aspect of SA , a Country embedded in Gloria & my own wine DNA appreciation.
Graham Beck has been a Cape Classique favourite of ours for many years and have happy memories of visiting the winery. Graham Weerts was unknown to us, but his involvement with the Dalkieth ( Chenin Blanc) and the four Chardonnays to follow gave us a most memorable tasting. The meal lived up to the occasion and our Caterer and staff are to be congratulated on the appropriate tasty “fishy” dishes being timely presented.
None of the wines presented disappointed, and none scored less than 15.5 ( The Chenin Blanc), with the most impressive for us, regardless of price being the Carpensis Fijnbosch Chardonay 2019. Was this a true reflection of quality? or the advancement of a most convivial luncheon! We care not, for the company on our table and in the room overall made life worth living.
Thank you so much Bernard,
– Douglas & Gloria McFarlane, Harrogate, 20/5/24
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