Nicholas Corfe of GoBrazil presented a selection of new wines from Brazil to members of the Harrogate Medical Wine Society at the Masonic Hall in Harrogate on Monday 23 October 2023. The aim of the tasting was to illustrate the breadth and depth of contemporary Brazilian wine-making and to pass on some observations from his recent visit to Brazil.
Brazil has been producing wine for nearly 500 years but does not have any native grapes. The wine industry has been almost entirely shaped by waves of immigrants and influence from abroad. Producers work with international varieties like Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Teroldego, Barbera, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional. Today, there are about 1100 wine producers in Brazil who made 3.2 million hectoliters of wine in 2022.
Members were served Don Guerino ‘Vintage’ Torrontes 2021 on arrival. It is produced from the distinctive Argentine grape variety (here called ‘Torrontés Riojano’) and is pale, and bright with a floral nose. It is unoaked, medium bodied with high acidity and has a long finish. ABV 12.5%. (£13.99 GoBrazil)
Following wines were tasted:
1. Campos de Cima Três Bocas Branco (Alvarinho/Assyrtiko/Arinto). – “A crisp white wine which originates in the furthest corner of SW Brazil, bordering Argentina, in a very small (15 htr.) vineyard. Light green-gold in colour; nose is fresh with melon, apricot and citric aromas. Fresh acidity and a long, tangy finish.” ABV 12.5%. (£14.99 GoBrazil)
2. Pizzato PP Semillon 2021 – “Produced from vines planted only in 2012, this is the first – and only – Brazilian 100% Semillon to reach UK shores. Fermented in both barrel & tank, then part aged for 4 months in French barrels (1st/2nd/3rd use) made of both oak and acacia, with just 5480 bottles produced. Complex nose shows melon, white flowers and dried fruit, with traces of herbs, spice and vanilla. Fresh and dry on a textured palate, with good acidity and a long finish” ABV 13%. (£17.99 GoBrazil)
3. Don Guerino Reserva Pinot Noir 2021 – Unusually for Don Guerino, this Pinot Noir uses ‘bought-in’ grapes from Brazil’s far southeast. Mid-garnet in colour but now starting to show a russet-red rim. Nose has ripe damson and berry fruit aromas, at the same time a touch earthy and herbaceous. Palate is dry, medium bodied and shows juicy red berry fruit, traces of vanilla and hint of spice. Tannins are modest, making wine very approachable and balanced. Drinks well on its own.” ABV 13.5% (£14.99 GoBrazil)
4. Sinais Malbec 2021 – “This is a 100% unoaked Malbec bottled under Don Guerino’s second, ‘Sinais’ branded label. A hint of violets – typical of this variety – can be picked up on the nose but it is still youthful blackcurrant and dark plum fruit that dominates. The theme continues through on to a medium-bodied, smooth palate. Not a wine for ageing, ideally drink within next 12-18 months.” ABV 13.5%. (£11.99 GoBrazil)
5. Guaspari Vale da Pedra Syrah 2020 – “From within the Tropics, in the highlands of Brazil’s coffee belt, this red is produced by the Guaspari winery whose average altitude is approx. 1100m. Unusually, climatic conditions demand a winter harvest, when temperatures are low and the weather is generally very dry. The ‘tinto’ here is 100% Syrah, which has been aged for 11 months in French (3rd use) barrels. It shows typical varietal notes of cloves and spice on the nose, along with rosemary and herbs. Savoury and rich, palate is concentrated and finish long.” ABV 14% (£24.99 GoBrazil)
Pizzato Reserva ‘Nervi’ Tannat 2020 – “Deep garnet red colour. Dark berry fruit aromas overlay subtle notes of dark chocolate, spice, toast and leather. 11 months in both new and second use French barrels lends both structure and elegance. 25+ year old vines. Tannins have mellowed and wine is drinking well now – still early for this grape variety – but will develop, becoming increasingly complex, with cinnamon and nutmeg aromas likely to show at a later stage. Decant.” ABV 13.5% (£18.99 GoBrazil)
The tasting was followed by a two-course supper produced by Chris Durrant of the Masonic Hall.
Supper Menu
Game Casserole with herby dumplings, mashed Sweet Potato & seasonal vegetables
2018 Chateau Chapelle d’alienor, La Gaffeliere,Bordeau Superieur was poured with the casserole
Créme Brulée
Tea/Coffee/Mints
Comments
Many thanks for organising another fascinating tasting last night. I believe that prior to last night I had only once tasted a Brazilian wine and that was very mediocre at best. A very informative and clear explanation by Nicholas Corfe. As I said last night, the Torrentes wine was by far the best example of this grape that I have hitherto encountered. Incredibly intense white and exotic fruits with some more subdued floral and spicy elements all supported with unusually good lime acidity for this grape. It was interesting that Ian Botwright gave us the opportunity to smell how the wine had evolved on the nose over the course of the evening. The floral and spicy notes had certainly become much more prominent – and more reminiscent of Argentinian examples sampled at previous tastings.
The Campos de Cima Tres Blancos was a good fish wine with excellent flinty minerality. White fruits were there, but I would have like more fruit to make this a completely balanced wine to my palate. It did however develop a stronger pear/ pear drop aroma after about 20 minutes in the glass.
The Pizzato Semillon was a wine that I was really looking forward to. However it was the major disappointment of the evening for me. The fruit was overwhelmed by the oak which, whatever it said on the barrel, was far too toasted to my taste, leaving an unpleasant, burnt aftertaste.
The Malbec was a pleasant, fruity, if unexceptional quaffing wine. The Pinot Noir did have some of the strawberry and floral elements that are associated with the grape. However the overall balance was lacking with the fruit being somewhat overwhelmed by the tannin and acidity. As you intimated Bernard, it lacked varietal typicity and for me, was somewhat clumsy.
The Syrah was a very good wine with wonderful aromas of dark fruit, leather, caramel and spice. On the palate these elements were also there, with blackcurrant being particularly evident and again some burnt oak. The latter was however this time integrated into wine and complemented rather than overwhelmed the fruit. A classy wine.
The Pizzaato Tannat was also very impressive. On the nose there was some greenness on the ample red and black fruits. It has very impressive tannins and provided a very full mouth feel which proved an excellent accompaniment to the fine game casserole. Would be fascinated to see how this wine would evolve over a number of years.
Please pass on my thanks to Nicholas Corfe for bringing such an interesting range of wines to the tasting on Monday evening. My thoughts on the individual wines were very similar to Rob’s and overall I was impressed by how well made all the wines were under conditions that are not always conducive to quality wine production. I had never heard before of the double pruning regime described by Nicholas that enables some wineries to harvest during winter in order to avoid poor Autumn weather, and apparently even include plant hormone growth sprays. That together with the often-heavy rainfall do mean that I feel Brazil is unlikely to be able compete with most international producers at the mass and mid-range price points. The last two wines presented are however an indication that they may have better international success at the higher quality end of the market. It was also pleasing to hear of a country where wine consumption is actually rising.
Thank you for organising another interesting and informative wine tasting of an area we know little about and have never tasted their wines before.
Our favourite wines on the night where the Campos de Cima Tres Branco, the Syrah and Tannat.
The supper was excellent and just the right amount.
Published 27 October 2023.
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