They have been making wine in Bairrada since the 10th century. Today it is DOC and is the home of tannic and acidic Baga. Luis Pato is king here.
I met Luis for the first time at the annual Wines of Portugal tasting in London this year. I tasted his whites and told him about my visit to his winery in Portugal last June. Luis was not there but one of his daughters took good care of us. He smiled and asked “Did she give you roast piglet for lunch.”
Luis has three daughters. Filipa, after spells in Bordeaux, Mendoza and Margaret River, is already making wines with her husband William Wouters – Belgian chef/sommelier/restaurateur, to rival her father’s. She calls them ‘Authentic Wines Without Makeup’. A bottle of Filipa Pato Branco 2015 uncorked the other day gave me a first taste of what to expect.
The FP Branco is a 50:50 Bical and Arinto blend. Arinto is one of the oldest grape varieties in Portugal and has the ability to retain acidity and an attractive lemony character in a wide range of soil types. Bical is very much a Bairrada varietal and wines from it have good alcohol levels, fresh acidity and attractive peachy aromas. Filipa’s Branco has lemon and apple on the nose, is fresh and crisp with a lovely texture, is creamy and has a pleasing peachy finish. Despite 6 grams of sugar, it tastes dry and fruity. The alcohol level is 12.4%. It is rich enough to be a food wine. (16.5)
This first exposure to Filipa Pato’s wines leaves me impressed and wanting to taste the rest of her range. I shall seek them out and next time I am in Bairrada, make it a point to visit her.
FP Branco 2015 is available from The Wine Society.