On our fifth day in Mallorca, we spent a couple of hours exploring La Granja, hiked from Eporles to Banyalbufar on the ancient ‘Postman’s Route’, tasted Malvasia at the Banyalbufar Co-op and went to dinner at Can Amer in Inca.
You hear and see the springs as you walk up to La Granja, the 17th century finca in the woods near Esporles. The Moors loved it here and built mills. Jaime 1 gave it Count Nuno Sans after the conquest and he intern gifted the estate to the Cistercians. Today this beautiful property is privately owned and is run as a ‘working museum’ and is well worth a visit. The museum shop sells seriously good fig cakes. (Open daily from 10am to 6pm. http://www.lagrnaja.net)
Cami des Correu
GR 221 or ‘Postman’s Route’ used to be the only footpath to the cost, used by the postman and ordinary village people. The stony path runs along the edge of the Tramuntana Mountains on the west coast of Mallorca.
Most of the path runs through wooded hillsides with Holm Oak (Quercus ilex, evergreen, Southern European native with spiny leaves), Strawberry Trees (Arbutus unedo, native to Western Europe and the Mediterranean basin) and wild olive trees.
The area is littered with ancient lime pits, charcoal makers little settlements with mounds, platforms and stone huts and Moorish irrigation channels and water reservoirs, sometimes containing fish.
The path emerges from the woods to magnificent vistas of the rugged coastline and the decent towards Banyalbufar begins.
We walk through Banyalbufar to one of the terraces to taste Malvasia wine – dry, crisp and lovely, from the local cooperative. The lunch they provided on the sun-kissed terrace was simple but delightful and immensely satisfying – salt free Mallorcan bread, olive oil, lovely fat Camaiot sausages, Sobrassada (finely minced pork sausage, flavoured with paprika) olives, tomatoes, pickled chillies and oranges. As we left, they presented each one of us with a bottle of their excellent Malvasia.
Dinner that evening was at cellar restaurant Can Amer in Inca with a selection of local wines. First, at the wine shop across the road from the restaurant we tasted a Cava made from Garnacha, a first for me.