It’s another beautiful day in Mallorca. After an early breakfast at Sa Bisbal in Selva
, we drive to Palma
to catch the mid morning vintage train to Soller
. Following a quick visit to the Miro and Picasso
exhibitions at the handsome Soller railway station, we hike to the pretty village of Fornalutx
about 4 km northeast of Soller for a Mallorcan
lunch at the homely Es Turo and walk the easy way back to Soller. We are back in Selva for the siesta and dine at the magnificent Sa Torre in Santa Eugenia
MARKET DAY IN SELVA
Wednesday is market day in Selva, a rather subdued affair in comparison to most Spanish village markets. Mainly fruit and vegetables are sold in the little square in front of the church from early morning.
Glum, red-faced man selling cheeses and hams stands alone
TRAIN TO SOLLER
The hundred year old narrow gauge train is still in good shape and does the 28 km to Soller on the other side of Serra de Tamuntana in under one hour.
15 mts. after leaving Palma, the city suburbs are behind and you rock and roll through the flat agricultural land with endless groves of citrus, cherries and almonds straight at the Tamuntana mountains past Bunyola
. You tunnel through the mountains, the longest taking 5 mts.
There are six or seven departures from Palma station daily. An ordinary one-way ticket costs €12.50 (cash only) and are not pr-bookable. http://www.trendesoller.com
It is cooler in the mountains and the train stops for a few minutes in the middle of nowhere for you to admire the thousand metre high crags and the deep valleys.
The train station is a pretty building with a wide stone staircase and houses an exhibition of ceramics by Picasso and paintings by Miro, whose maternal grandfather was from Soller. (Daily 10.30am to 6.30pm. Entrance is free)
Trams to Port Soller on the coast stop right next to the train station.
The small and compact Placa Constitucio, crowded with cafes is dominated by the massive neo-Gothic church of St Bartomeu.
This is a 9km circular walk from Soller to the village of Fornalutx via Biniaraix with an approximate ascent/descent of 300m and taking about 3 hours.
Jes from excellent Mallorca Hiking led the walk (www.mallorcahiking.com). We climbed steadily through orchards with Moorish irrigation channels and dry- stone walls.
Ancient wash house fed from mountain springs
The countryside appeared stunning in the morning light
The path cuts through the tiny mountain village of Biniaraix
Fornalutx is often called the most beautiful village in Mallorca
The pretty square of Fornalutx
We took the easy way back to Soller, many along country lanes
There were more elaborate wash houses…
…and orange trees heavy with fruit
LUNCH AT ES TURO
The restaurant is situated just a couple of minutes uphill from main square in Fornalutx and serves homely Mallorcan food at very reasonable prices.The outside terrace overlooking the valley is a great place to sit and sip a draught Estella or a glass or rosé. We ate salads, truita (tortilla with garlic and potatoes), sopas Mallorquina (a thick vegetable soup), Frito Malloriquina (Pig’s offal, potatoes and onions cooked with oil) and much more.
DINNER AT SA TORRE DE SANTA EUGENIA
Sa Torre in Santa Eugenia is only an agriturismo restaurant but served one of the best meals of the week in Mallorca. You drive through extensive vineyards to the old, cavernous building that serves as the restaurant. Inside, it is spotless and elegant and staff discreet. The room is dimly lit and pleasantly warm. We sip Cava first and various delightful manifestations of Prensal Blanc and Manto Negro with a succession of satisfying dishes. This is a place well worth revisiting. (www.sa-torre.com)
At the end of the evening, the chef comes out to chat with the diners